Kampçı Editör Ekibi
Outdoor Writer @ Kampçı
Shouldering your backpack and stepping into the depths of nature requires a very different discipline than stationary camping. Although Central Anatolia, the heart of our country, is often overshadowed by the Black Sea or the Mediterranean in terms of backpacking routes, it hosts challenging and educational trails where intermediate hikers can hone their technical skills. The endless horizon of the steppe, volcanic tuff terrains, and canyon microclimates offer hikers both physical and mental endurance tests. In this guide, we explore route details, gear strategies, and region-specific survival practices for those planning a backpacking trip in the arid yet fascinating geography of Central Anatolia.
Combining camping and hiking in the Central Anatolia region means operating in an environment with low humidity but high winds and temperature fluctuations. Compared to Black Sea routes, Central Anatolian trails have fewer forested areas and natural water sources; therefore, hydration planning and sun protection require extra attention. In Central Anatolia, the temperature difference between day and night can reach up to 15 degrees during the spring months. This makes the principle of layering not just a preference, but a necessity.
The region's terrain generally consists of volcanic tuff, limestone, and hardened soil. While this type of ground turns into slippery mud when it rains, it presents a dusty and abrasive surface in dry weather. Hiking on this terrain with a heavy backpack increases the load on your ankles and knees. When pitching a tent, the hard ground requires you to use more durable steel pegs or rock-anchored guy lines instead of standard aluminum pegs.
If you are an intermediate camper, it means you are ready to move beyond day hikes and spend at least 2 nights in nature with a 12-15 kilogram backpack. The most qualified routes where you can experience this in Central Anatolia are:
Tracing the footsteps of the ancient Phrygians, this route is located on the western border of Central Anatolia and blends historical ruins with nature. The total length of the Phrygian Way is 506 kilometers, and it is ideal for intermediate campers to hike it in 3-4 day stages. The İhsaniye, Ayazini, and Yazılıkaya (Midas Monument) line is the most suitable section for backpacking. Water sources along the route are limited; fountains in some villages may dry up during the summer. Therefore, you should have the capacity to carry at least 3-4 liters of water daily. Since the terrain mostly consists of rock cavities and hard trails, an ankle-supporting B/C class trekking boot should be preferred.
Ihlara Valley is a canyon system formed by the Melendiz River and, unlike the arid nature of Central Anatolia, has its own microclimate. Although camping on the valley floor is generally prohibited or subject to permission, you can hike the entire length of the valley by setting up camp in safe areas near the river at the valley's entrance (Ihlara town) or exit (Selime) points. On the Cappadocia side, routes stretching from Pigeon Valley (Güvercinlik) to Red Valley (Kızılçukur) test your navigation skills among the fairy chimneys. The soft tuff terrain in these areas makes the use of trekking poles mandatory; otherwise, there is a high risk of slipping during descents.
To conserve your energy and increase your comfort while backpacking in the unique geography of Central Anatolia, you should apply the following practices:
The most common mistakes intermediate campers make during their transition phase are usually related to gear selection and weight distribution:
One of the biggest safety risks you will encounter in the region is livestock guardian dogs (Kangal or Akbash breeds) rather than wildlife. If dogs charge at you barking when you approach a flock or a fold, absolutely do not run; slowly change your direction without making eye contact. Instead of raising your trekking poles in a threatening manner, hold them crossed in front of you to create a barrier and wait for the shepherd to notice you.
From a climatic perspective, you must be careful of sudden thunderstorms (known locally as 'kırkikindi' rains) during late spring and autumn. When setting up camp on canyon floors (e.g., Ihlara), you should choose a terrace at least 2-3 meters above the riverbed with an escape route to protect against flash floods.
Never skip these three rules before embarking on Central Anatolian routes:
1. Self-Sufficiency: Unlike the Lycian Way, you won't find a guesthouse or market every few kilometers on the Phrygian Way or Cappadocia routes. The first aid kit, repair materials (duct tape, tent pole repair splint), and backup calories in your backpack are of vital importance.
2. Accurate Calorie Calculation: Backpacking in the steppe causes your body to burn 3500-4500 calories a day. You cannot close this deficit with just pasta or instant soup. Include foods with a high weight-to-calorie ratio in your meals, such as peanut butter, nuts, jerky, and olive oil.
3. Route Notification: Assuming that cell phone signals will be completely lost inside the valleys, make sure to inform a trusted person or the local gendarmerie station of your planned route, estimated campsites, and return date.
The most ideal times for the region are between late April and early June (spring), and mid-September to late October (autumn). Extreme heat and water scarcity in the summer, and freezing cold in the winter, make hiking difficult.
No, natural water sources are limited and seasonal. Water can be obtained from villages along the route, but since the distances between villages are long, you should always carry at least 3 liters of backup water and a water filter with you.
On the rolling and hard terrain of Central Anatolia, walking an average of 12 to 16 kilometers a day with a 12-15 kilogram backpack is ideal. This distance is a safe limit to manage fatigue and leave enough time for setting up camp.
When dogs approach you, absolutely do not run or make sudden movements. Lower your trekking poles to the ground to create a barrier between you, slowly walk away from the flock without turning your back on them, and call out to the shepherd.
Due to the slipperiness of the volcanic tuff terrain and hard rocks, mid or high-cut trekking boots that protect the ankle against sprains, have a stiff sole, and offer high traction (Vibram, etc.) should be preferred.
Backpacking in Central Anatolia is a highly educational adventure where nature reminds you of your limits and endurance with every step. The nights you spend amidst the historical texture of the Phrygian Way or the canyon walls of Ihlara are not just a physical activity, but also the art of integrating with the geography. As long as you choose your gear correctly, manage your water wisely, and respect the region's climate dynamics, the silence of the steppe will offer you one of the best camping experiences. Now it's time to balance your backpack, tighten your boot laces, and leave your own mark on the hidden trails of Central Anatolia. Wishing you safe and enjoyable trails!
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